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Kal's HCFR Ultimate Grayscale and Color Correction Manual
The most recent original English version of this procedure can be found here at CurtPalme.com.
This Chinese version of the procedure has been translated from English with the permission from the original author.
Translator's Note: The latest English version of this manual can be found here at CurtPalme.com. This Chinese version of the manual is authorized by the original author. The layout section is still in progress. This Chinese version of the manual, in order to be faithful to the original, all content is expressed according to the original author's meaning, without adding the translator's personal opinion. The translator's personal opinion will be discussed separately. Author: Kal (curtpalme.com editors / moderators) Last Updated: June 17, 2010, (New ChromaPure video calibration software information)
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Is this manual suitable for me?
This manual is for home theater players who want to get the absolute best picture from any TV projector. It will show you how to get the most correct color possible on different technology displays (plasma, LCD, DLP, SXRD, LCOS, LCOS, CRT, etc.).
No preparation knowledge and an understanding of grayscale and color correction is required. In fact, you don't even have to know what a grayscale correction is. We will explain why it is so important, and what tools are actually needed and how to use them. Read on to find out why proper grayscale and color correction are considered to be the most important thing for anyone who wants to get the best picture quality from their TV or projector.
Prior to this manual, numerous calibration manuals have been made available to the public. Some of them are quite good, but the problem we found is that most manuals assume that the reader already has the equipment they need and know how to use it. Most manuals also assume that the reader knows some proper terms, such as D65, three primary colors, CIE, and so on. Some even provide links to some highly technical documents and are marked as mandatory. Yes, these documents provide a lot of information, but not everyone wants to get a Ph.D. to adjust the appropriate grayscale and color.
Our manual takes a step back and assumes that the reader is completely unaware of what is grayscale and color correction. In fact, this manual even assumes that the reader has never heard of grayscale and color correction. We will explain what they are, list the tools needed, go there to buy, and then lead the reader through the whole process.
We hope that you will find it useful.
Disclaimer: Those who don't like to do their own corrections should consider using professionals. This manual is for those who want to correct themselves or want to learn professional corrections. Whether you are trying to calibrate yourself or use a professional, consider correcting your monitor. You will be surprised that there will be such a big difference in quality.
witness
"The professional report on video correction is doing well. I am from a strictly trained environment, and if my instructors feel that they will not work because they share their knowledge, I guess we will not have any today. School or university. I personally think that anyone has no private rights to knowledge. Continue to do this great work" - Richard Stokes of , ISF Certified Video Calibrator and Trainer / LucasFilm THX Certified Surround Sound System Calibrator
"Your grayscale correction manual is very good. A beginner like me needs to know what kind of sensor to buy, what kind of test pattern, and what kind of software to use. Your manual not only contains these but also contains how Using software. Even if I am a beginner, I can do the job. My picture is very outstanding now. I invited some people tonight to see the high quality Olympics. Everyone is surprised and so good. The picture quality. When I first set up my Sony G90 projector, I think it is good enough, but it is perfect now. I wish I had done the right color for the previous Sony G70 projector that I enjoyed for seven years. Correction allows me to enjoy the beautiful picture I see now. But it still can't compare with the existing corrected G90." - Ray
"I can't believe that my previous settings were far off the mark. I have used the calibration disc and I feel that it is OK. I am wrong!". . . It's got better after completing the program written by Kal, and I have to say "This image is more real, not so ridiculous." - ExCavTanker
"An incredible technical document" - Greg K.
"Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! For us who are not afraid to venture into the engineering menu but don't fully understand what all things are doing together (hardware, software, and programs), this is really setting the grayscale Standard documents. I often say that there are two greatest things in Canada, hockey and bears, and now I want to add this manual to the list. I am more and more fond of correcting my grayscale, plus myself. Hands-on satisfaction is great." - Derek G.
"You deliberately brought the grayscale correction to the public... Thank you very much... I finished reading your manual a week ago and immediately ordered an eye-one. I downloaded the ColorHCFR software and it was on my laptop. On the installation, plus a tripod and DVE disc, I corrected my Z4 in an hour or so and learned a lot of settings in the process. Your manual is precisely aimed at amateur players like me, I really like your hypothetical readers. I don't know the importance of grayscale correction and the way in which terminology is used to talk about these things. I can only say that I thank you very much" - Monomer
"Thank you very much for your manual. I just finished the grayscale correction with my i1 Display LT (Lite). My HC3000 DLP projector looks great... it's hard to imagine how good it is. Experts do these things, I prefer to correct my monitor myself." – Jedi performs
"The manual you made is really good. It's hard to find someone who really knows what he is talking about, and he is willing to share his information, especially in detail. I thank you for the time and effort spent on it. After reading the first quarter, I am 100% sure that the information you gave is correct and well organized. As an AV professional, I know that in addition to the industry, there are others who care about the industry and share what they know. It’s very exciting to improve this business" - Bill Allen
"Thank you very much for your manual" It is very useful and the whole process is not fun!" - Curttard
"This manual is very useful for amateur players and practitioners. Believe me, follow it, you will become incredible, even if you only complete the grayscale correction." - Joel
"For your manual, I would like to say a few times. It helped me open a new door and answered many questions. I am very happy to correct my own DLP, but also able to experiment and fine-tune the settings to full satisfaction. I am very grateful for these." - Warren
"According to your manual, I have completed several corrections - absolutely professional - there is nothing that makes sense to me before this!" - Step hen
"For mainstream customers and serious calibration staff, you have completed the best service. Well done!!!" - Jeremy Kipnis of Kipnis-Studios.com and Videocalbration.com
"How many projectors are not properly calibrated and very enjoyable?" Kal, I hope that you have a well-written and professional manual on grayscale correction that will allow those people to start checking their own improper or uncorrected projectors. I found out how good the color corrected color can be!" - John (HDfury2 HDMI converter designer)
"I'm sure you hate people now, thank you, kiss your feet on the street, ask for your children, etc., but I have to say thank you again. Your manual encourages me to buy i1 last week to correct me. VW60. The difference is really big! It also let me know all the charts and terminology I have seen in the past years (I couldn’t understand it before). Remember to wash your feet, if I meet you, I might kiss them. ."-Irish Corner
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introduction
If you have bought a TV or projector for US$1000 or more, chances are you are seriously considering building a home theater. How many people don't know that projectors and TVs generally need to be calibrated to get the correct interpretation of the video signal. The quickest way to get a theater-like picture is to find someone to help you with your monitor. The most important of professional calibrations (requiring specific instruments) is grayscale and color correction.
The only downside to professional correction is the price: usually a single TV requires US$350-US$450, while a complex home theater requires US$1000 or more. Of course every penny is worth it, but it is not cheap. Another disadvantage of professional calibration is that if the best results are used, the correction must be made whenever the equipment is replaced, or in the case of a digital projector, the bulb needs to be attenuated. The color displayed by the digital projector will vary significantly over the life of the lamp for 1000-2000 hours. For a video specialist with a digital projector, it is not uncommon to do a grayscale correction every 100-200 hours (especially for new ones). CRT (Picture Tube) displays are quite stable in this respect, and the color temperature of a typical CRT image tube does not drift much during its lifetime of 10,000-20000 hours.
The good news is that in the past few years, because the price of sensors has fallen rapidly but the quality has improved dramatically, grayscale and color correction have been affordable for the average DIY home theater amateur players. Generally, people who want to correct the display can already use the sensor with less than US$150, and get very good results from the action hand correction. Based on the assumption that you don't understand anything about color correction at all, this manual will lead you through these corrections, not only very easy, DIY has a great sense of accomplishment and learning experience.
We will start with grayscale correction because it is the most important and easiest step to complete, then proceed to the final step to complete the color correction.
What is grayscale correction?
Grayscale correction refers to adjusting your display to confirm that the display from full black (0 IRE) to full white (100 IRE) can display the correct gray as much as possible without highlighting other unnecessary colors. It should not be slightly reddish, bluish, or greenish. This can be done with the help of a sensor. Because our eyes are a completely unreliable tool for measuring color, sensors are necessary.
Grayscale correction is equalized at very different brightness, from very black (0 IRE) to very white (100 IRE) gray to a standard color temperature of 6500 degrees Kelvin or 6500K. The 6500K color temperature is a pure signal that does not contain any color information. It is pure black or pure white or a gray between the two. The 6500K is usually designated as the daylight color temperature because it is the color temperature at noon in North America. Assuming the grayscale display of your computer monitor is quite accurate, a perfect grayscale should look like this: 
Unfortunately, the factory defaults for most monitors usually have too much red on the dark end and too much blue on the bright end, making the grayscale image look like this: 
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What is color correction?
Color correction is the next step after grayscale correction, and color correction ensures that the three primary colors used to create all colors are correct.
Most of the three primary colors of the display are incorrect, the green is usually too yellow, the red is too orange, or the color is too saturated and not correct. The example below is a projector with an over-saturated green that causes the turf to look a bit slick on the turf. 
Thanks to Tom Huffman of photos from
Appropriate color correction should be based on the correct grayscale. Unless the grayscale is correct, it is impossible to have the correct color. [page]
Why do grayscale and color correction?
Correcting grayscale and color will greatly enhance your display's ability to not only display black and white correctly, but also any color between the two. It also increases contrast and keeps your monitor working at its best, thus extending its working life. I
Without proper grayscale and color correction, image quality can be very imperfect, and it can produce incorrect colors, poor dark detail (loss of dark detail), reduced contrast, and image impact. Such images are not only fascinating, let alone not real. The production and display of the movie is set at the color temperature, so if your TV is properly calibrated to 6500K, you can get close to the intention of the director.
A common misconception is that you can get the usual grayscale and color through standard display controls such as hue control, chroma control and contrast control. This is wrong. These controls have little or no effect on the gray levels and colors we want. To complete the grayscale correction you need to adjust the intensity of the three primary colors (red, green, blue) from black to white. As for adjusting the three primary colors, you need to adjust the purity of the three primary colors. Most of the more advanced TV projectors have menus that provide grayscale settings, and some also mention adjustment menus for the three primary colors. We will use these controls with the help of sensors and specific software.
Some people will try or think that the human eye can do the correct grayscale and color correction, but the human eye is actually a very poor tool for measuring brightness and color. The result is usually very far away from the ideal. Those who have had years of experience in sensor adjustment may be able to use the human eye to get pretty good results, but that is how they have had years of adjustment experience. The paradox is, if you already have a sensor, why not continue to use it?
Why is grayscale and color correction necessary?
This is a very good question, and it is also the complaint that most consumers have (or should have). T
The best way to answer this question is to answer the most frequently asked questions about grayscale and color correction.
Why is my TV perfectly calibrated in the manufacturer's factory? Why do I have to do this myself or spend money to find someone to do it?
Unfortunately, manufacturers are not very interested in confirming that their displays are suitable for complying with or accepting the color standards used by the television broadcast and film industries. In fact, they deliberately use the opposite way! In order to sell more TV, manufacturers continue to try to use brighter blue and more vivid red than the competition. This is the same reason that the laundry detergent manufacturer adds blue dye to their laundry detergent to make the white look whiter. In showrooms filled with different brands, TV manufacturers continue to add extra color in order to make their TVs more appealing to consumers. When faced with a similar display on the whole face, how do consumers decide to buy that TV? And why, you must choose the brightest one or the one with the brightest color, is that right? Wrong!
What you need to know is that the only way to display color correctly is to comply with the industry's widely recognized color standards for standard image quality (SD) and high quality (HD). Other ways are simple. Said to be wrong. Movies and TV shows are made with meticulous attention to these long-standing industrial color standards. For TVs or projectors, if you want to reproduce the pictures that the director wants to present to the audience, they must comply with these standards. Regardless of what the salesperson and the manufacturer tell you, any TV that expands beyond these current industrial color standards will show incorrect colors! This is as simple as black and white, without any sophistry: TV only obeys or does not comply with this standard. Remember the next time you buy a TV! Put more thought on how manufacturers can smash TVs or other monitors to fool our brains to choose their products. Also refer to the instructions in the previous chapters of the professional Digital Video Essentials: HD Basics (Blu-ray) test piece.
My TV has a 6500K color temperature setting so I don't need grayscale correction. I simply choose 6500K in the setup menu, I automatically have the perfect grayscale from black to white, isn't it?
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Unfortunately, the answer is no. It is not as simple as that. Choosing the 6500K color temperature option in the TV/Projector Settings menu is a step in the right direction, and we appreciate the manufacturer that offers this option. Unfortunately, this option rarely has a near-correct value throughout the grayscale portion. It also does not take into account other equipment (including curtains), or the aging and wear of TVs or light bulbs. Later we will see the color temperature setting of 6500K, the value of US$30,000 CRT (Barco Cine 8 Onyx) projector grayscale measurement, mainly tells you how far it is. For your monitor, we will do the same, so you can see that your monitor's measurements are much worse. However, now I am going to show that from many people think that the best display equipment, very expensive CRT projector: US $40,000 Sony G90 CRT projector shot before and after correction:
This is a picture taken from the value of US$40,000 Sony G90 at the original preset color temperature of 6500K: 
Now this is the same projector with the appropriate grayscale correction: 
Thanks to the forum member Clarence for taking his Sony G90 and providing photos (you can see the details of the shadows that were not available in the first photo).
Assuming that the monitor you are using now has enough gray scales, the second photo should look a lot better than the first one. Please note that in the second photo, Jennifer Aniston's face is not red/blue, and the colors are more beautiful and the contrast is better. The image simply looks more prominent. With proper grayscale correction, the image will be more impactful, usually with a more three-dimensional feel, the color will be more natural, and the details of the dark part will be more obvious. The whole picture is also brighter, even without the contrast control. As mentioned earlier, the Sony G90 is a CRT projector with a recommended price of $40,000. Even so, the original 6500K is still far from perfect. Most monitors are even worse!
Only when a person sees the picture before and after the correction, will the true gray level be important, there is no way to know by watching the screen shot because the digital camera shooting and different screen viewing will lose a lot of details. Today you may think that your projector or TV looks ok, but until you really see what it really is, you won't know how much you lost before. After you complete your grayscale correction, you will fully think that you are looking at a completely different display.
I don't have Blu-ray or high quality, my TV/projector is not 1080p. I just watch regular DVD or TV shows. Is calibration still valuable?
The answer is still the same: definitely worth it.
Proper video correction has nothing to do with newer technologies such as high quality or Blu-ray, whether your source (Blu-ray, HDTV, 480i DVD or TV) is properly corrected for any image resolution will ensure you What you see is the best image in the system.
When HD programs provide your current best image quality via HDMI cable (as much as possible), standard quality images transmitted via AV terminals, S-video, or component terminals will still benefit from proper grayscale and color correction. (For the different wiring types and the best information, please refer to the FAQ: Hooking it all up manual).
The concept of video correction has almost emerged during the maturity of television. It is not a new concept. It continues to be useful as new technologies and new programs continue to evolve. As long as there is a place for movies and TV, corrections are always needed.
Interested in grayscale and color correction? Let's get to know it! It's easier than you think!
What equipment do I need?
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You need some equipment to set the grayscale of your projector/TV:
Sensor
The sensor is used to measure the amount of light and color. Please refer to the FAQ: Which sensor is right for me? There are different models for comparison. Our manuals are available for Eye-One Display 2/LT, Eye-One Pro, and Spyder 2. Most home users may prefer to use the Eye-One Display sensor, which offers two sets of Eye-One Display 2 or Eye-One Dispaly LT (Lite). The sensors in both sets are the same. The more expensive Dispaly 2 kit contains software for digital photography that we don't need here. For those who want to use a professional solution, you should consider replacing it with the more accurate Eye-One Pro. This is the sensor* used by most professionals. We have partnered with their hardware OEM suppliers to supply Eye-One Pro at a discounted price. For users with limited budgets, we offer Spyder 2, however please read our comparison of Eye-One vs. Spyder2 first.
Canadians and other non-US citizens: Amazon.com does not ship electronic products outside the United States, so we bought the Eye-One Display LT from B and H Photo Video. They are very good companies and offer international delivery services. If you use the cheaper (UPS Expedited) shipping method, there is no tax or other charges! 
* Even though most professionals use the Eye-One Pro sensor, they don't use the free ColorHCFR software mentioned in our manual. This doesn't mean it's a bad software, it just lacks the features that some professionals need, such as making reports, making description files, secrets/manuals, and support for high-end sensors. The ColorHCFR software used in the manual simply reads the measurement data from your sensor and plots them. It does not explain what is going on, what you should do, or what the outcome means. It's up to you to interpret its meaning (of course, with the help of this manual).
Conversely, professionals often prefer to use the more advanced ChromaPure correction software. Think of the ChromaPure correction software as an interactive version of our manual that will be easier to understand. The flow of our manual is based on Tom Huffman, author of ChromaPure Correction Software, and a manual like this is no longer needed. ChromaPure Correction Software supports all of the above common sensors and is still growing. We have a few special offers on CurtPalme.com for more information?»
Can't figure out which sensor to buy? Please refer to the FAQ: Which sensor is right for me? Test strips with grayscale test pattern You need a test piece with a 0 to 100 IRE square test pattern. We recommend digital Video Essentials: HD Basics (BD or HD DVD). Since it is the cheapest at the moment, our manual will tell you how to find the test pattern you need on this disc. DVE (standard DVD version) and Avia II are also available, but the menus for these two are somewhat different, so you must find the same test pattern according to our picture. We don't recommend using the original Avia DVD because its grayscale test pattern is not correct (the author has already acknowledged this).
For Canadians and other non-US residents: Amazon.com can be shipped to the world and it is usually cheaper to buy locally. It is also tax-free for Canadians! 
Tripod For projector/curtain settings, you need a tripod to mount the sensor before the curtain. Direct-view or rear-projection TVs are not required. Make sure the tripod can be extended to the center of the curtain. The "free" Spyder2 tripod seat is also available (US$15 postage) but not as good as tape.
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Windows PC* for software
Notebook computer movement is more convenient to use, but as long as any computer is fast enough, the capacity is not important.
*Mac can also be used. Mac users will be happy to hear that at least one user reported that he has successfully run Mac OS 10.2.8 under Virtual PC 6.1.2. The ColorHCFR software on the Mac G3 (iBook) is paired with this manual and the Eye One sensor.
Some good movies can test your results!
You are ready to show off your latest corrected display! The best way is to pick a 1080p (Full HD) BD (Blu-ray Disc) from our distribution list and Betfair Blu-ray to test! This list is updated weekly, and There is a simple list of essential home theater movies with better audio and video quality. These movies must be included in every movie collection. Here are some 5 star reviews to get you started...
Check out our full list of 5 star reviews for Blu-ray movies. Our additional ads: Please support the creation of this manual, for example using the link above from Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk, or B&H Photo Video Buy these videos or other things. A small amount of everything you buy will be automatically transferred to support this forum and the creation of this manual, and you do not have to pay any additional fees. We also welcome direct donations, we thank you very much!!
The monitor control you will use
Most CRTs and digital projectors or TVs, as well as LCD, DLP, and plasma flat panel displays have these necessary controls to perform grayscale correction. On your projector or TV, we will adjust the four controls to set the correct grayscale. It is important to know where these controls are and become familiar with them:
Brightness Control: This control is used to adjust the level of black. Setting the brightness control too low will cause the dark detail to turn black (called "black crush"). Setting the brightness control too high will make the black look gray. Brightness control affects all colors at the same time.
Contrast Control: This control is used to adjust the white level or the brightness peak. A contrast control setting that is too low can result in a dim picture. If the contrast control setting is too high, the highlight details will become white (called "white clipping") or blooming/smearing. Contrast control affects all colors at the same time. Some manufacturers call it "Picture".
RGB Lowend Control: This control is used to adjust the darker parts of the red, green and blue colors throughout the grayscale. Think of it as a separate color control. Manufacturers mostly use different names, such as 'Cut', 'Cutoff', and 'Bias' are the most commonly used. In this manual, we refer to these controls collectively as 'RGBLowend' controls to avoid confusion.
RGB HighEnd Control: This control is used to adjust the brighter parts of the red, green and blue colors in the entire grayscale. Think of it as a contrast control of individual colors. Manufacturers mostly use different names, such as 'Drive' and 'Gain' are the most commonly used. In this manual, we refer to these controls collectively as 'RGBHighEnd' controls to avoid confusion.
All displays have brightness control and contrast control. If your projector or TV has red, green, and blue colors, there are RGBLowend and RGBHighEnd controls, then you can correct your grayscale.
Since different manufacturers have different names for RGBLowend and RGBHighEnd controls, please refer to your user manual for grayscale, white balance, or color temperature adjustments to see how they are called on your monitor. If you have a CRT projector, you can find the relevant manual at Tech Tips on our website.
For these two controls, the most common names are as follows:
RGBLowend: Bias, Offset, Cuts, Cutoff, Sub-Brightness, RGB Brightness
RGBHighEnd: Drive, Gain, Sub-Contrast, RGB Contrast
To make it easier for CRT projector owners to handle, the following are the names used by each CRT projector manufacturer for RGBLowend and RGBHighEnd:
Ampro: Sub-Brite, Sub-Contrast Barco: Cutoff, Drive Dwin: Level, Gain Electrohome ECP: G2, Drive Electrohome Marquee/Madrigal: G2, Drive NEC PG/Runco: B, W NEC XG/Runco: BLK, WHT Runco : Please use our Runco cross-reference table to find the manufacturer that made your Runco projector and then join other vendors listed here. Seleco: Black, White Sony: Bias, Gain's introduction is over. Let's get into the grayscale correction!